Enter: Agapé Substance

Let’s be clear, there is nothing like it in the city right now and with reason: David Toutain and Laurent Lapaire are the gastronomical darlings of Paris.

There was so much talk around why Agapé Substance didn’t get the star(s) they seemed so predestined to receive in February just before the controversial red guide hit bookstores.

Did they deserve what they didn’t get? Who will ever know? More importantly, who cares? As I learned, stars don’t insure a stellar experience… Agapé Substance should definitely not feel cold-shouldered… They have no star to envy when all their clients leave the place with so many in their eyes.

The food is as precise as ever, the service dance is mastered, smiles everywhere, the bathroom has a warming seat and oscillating jets to massage your derrière, the bar stools are plush albeit reserved for those with no back problems, the iPad wine list is ecological. The selection is naturally oriented: Philippe Valette, Philippe Pacalet, Gianfranco Manca, Le Coste, Anselme Selosse, Emmannuel Lassaigne. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to drink Gianfranco Manca’s Sardinian wine especially since they are virtually impossible to find and I had never tried the listed cuvée: Kussas Intrendu a Manu ‘eretta, 100% Cannonau (Grenache). The wine took a moment to open up but after half an hour in a carafe and a cool-down, it was splendid.

Agapé Substance is essentially a cooking lab where the patrons are lab rats and Toutain is the mad (super-talented) scientist. The knowledgeable waitstaff make their way around twenty or so happy and willing victims that crowd the tiny space. They pour clear and perfumed potatoe skin consommé out of test tubes onto perfectly tender gnocchi and seared foie gras. They place in front of you a sea urchin topped with a decadent coffee foam that tickles the tongue and enchants the senses. A Toutain classic that is one of the most poetic and genuine odes to mushrooms that has yet to hit my palate: his pieds bleus poêlé and chestnut crumble.

I will not list every bite I had because there were over twenty, but I will say this: rarely have I eaten so well and felt perfectly full and satisfied at the exit.

Notable is the return to the restaurant scene of Sofian Aït-Bouda who used to be the sommelier at Restaurant Spring. Considerably softened up and knowledgeable as ever, the wine pairings were spot on.

Some have said that Toutain‘s style is intellectual. I disagree. I think it is the perfect blend of a genuine emotional intelligence and refined technical ability.

The result is incredibly touching and the risk-taking is inspiring. A force to be reckoned with.

Agapé Substance

66 rue Mazarine 75006

Tel: 01 43 29 33 83

http://www.agapesubstance.com/

Open Tuesday to Saturday for Lunch and Dinner


One star, two stars, three stars… bleep.

Lunch at l’Arpège

I guess you could say it was a little like the first time you have sex with someone you really like: the hopes are high, the performance acceptable but the result unmemorable. Thankfully, I am consoled that the first time is usually the worst. We didn’t know each other very well. We weren’t completely comfortable. The timing wasn’t right. The weather wasn’t perfect. I was tired. He wasn’t all there.

Credit: GQ

At l’Arpège, there is a stool for your bag. There are over eight people on the floor. There is beautiful silverware, spotless white tablecloths, Riedel glasses, Bernardaud plates… the works. The wines are well paired. The vegetables are absolutely exquisite and carefully prepared although mint seems to be over-flourishing in Passard‘s garden these days…

But hey! at least, I know now… Sometimes the stars don’t insure that the experience will be mind-blowing every single time.

And somehow, that comes as a relief: they are human.

This experience got me thinking about the frenzy star-excitement that swept over Paris when the Michelin released its annual red guide last month. Countless articles were written. Many opinions were voiced. In the industry, it was on everyone’s lips. Mine included. Who got a star? Did they deserve it? How could they take a star away from them and give one to them?! And on this went…

Credit: Via Michelin

Indeed, I was definitely part of the problem at l’Arpège: I expected SO much. I was bound to be disappointed. This is what the star system perpetuates: it creates (perhaps unknowingly) unreachable expectations for its readers.

Think of your best meal ever… If you can’t top that in a three star restaurant, then you ask yourself: “Why is it three starred?” And then you think: ‘Well, Michelin doesn’t know what they’re talking about and I can’t trust that I will enjoy the restaurants they have put forward.”

Now I must state, I believe in the three-time rule and it applies when tasting wines and going to restaurants.

Of course, I am not nearly rich enough to go thrice to every restaurant so I really hope the first time will be a winner.

But when it comes to l’Arpège, I can’t wait to give it another test-drive. And this time, I’m tucking all those expectations, along with that red guide, away.

Tough growth

Truth be told, I was not really predisposed  to fall in the barrel. My mother was not a drinker of wine. She never passed down that knowledge or passion to me. In fact, she made a grimace and sighed loudly when, in the honeymoon phase of my relationship with wine, I dramatically announced I was going to dedicate my life to it.

However, she did pass down other passions that were related: food, travel, opinions. She may not even have realized, but each simple yet delicious meal she carefully crafted was a ceremony and an occasion to sit down, catch up, communicate, at times bicker, at times laugh. As a child, she grew up on a farm in southern France in a small village to peasant parents. I often wondered what her relationship to wine was and why she had grown to dislike it so…

“I was born in south-western France, near Toulouse, in a hamlet with exactly four houses and three families, since one of the houses was empty. Not the most exciting place… To make matters worse, there were no children my age, and the closer playmates were a good kilometre  away, in a bee-line across the fields. We were two girls in the family, ten years apart, and since my sister married and moved away when I was ten years old, I spent half of my younger years as an only child. What I remember most about my childhood is being bored.

We lived on a small farm, my parents, my grandparents, my sister and me. We had five cows, a couple of pigs, and a variety of fowl, which my mother tended, apart from helping in the fields with the hay and wheat harvest. She had to get up at six every morning to make breakfast for the whole family, and milk  the cows. My father worked in a local factory which made mostly chairs and desks, the very chairs and desks we, kids, sat on in primary school. He stood all day long in front of a huge machine, a saw blade going round and round, up and down. He would push the wood  through the blade following the shapes that produced the various pieces of furniture. He had to work in the factory as the farm was not big enough to support the family. But my father had a hobby: a beloved vineyard which he tended meticulously, and from which he got the grapes to make wine. Too bad that neither the soil of the area, nor the weather, were suited to a good  vintage.

He had a huge cement vat where he put the grapes, crushed them, and  let them ferment until the dark red juice came out to be put in barrels. We would drink that wine all year long. My father was a kind, mild mannered man, and I suspect his hobby took the brunt of standing up all day in front of that roaring saw at the factory. The problem was that his wine was –to put it mildly—quite bad. It was a cross between wine and vinegar, and even when you cut it with a bit of water, the result was far from satisfactory.  But my dad was adamant that it was a great brew, and the whole family downed a glass or two at each meal to please him.

It was my father’s self assigned job to tend the vineyard. The grape harvest, however, was a family event, and all of us, including my sister and I, took part in this September activity. Picking grapes may seem fun for those city types who have never had to bend down all day under a blazing sun, and cut grapes off the vines. It’s a backbreaking job, and one I remember without fondness.

One particular year, when I was about nine years old, I was busy cutting the grapes off when I noticed a strange movement on the rough vine trunk. I stepped back, and froze, knife in hand. I could have sworn the vine bark was changing shape under my very eyes… It suddenly stretched, undulated, and raised its triangular, V-marked head. I’d been warned about snakes, and screamed in recognition, “Mom, there is a viper…here on this vine, Mom…” My father heard me first. He came to me and bashed the slithering beast with a garden hoe chopping its head right off on the brown earth. This incident did not improve my harvesting output.

 I didn’t mind living on a farm because I enjoyed the outdoors, and the freedom I had as a child. We had no running water, and of course, no TV. But I mostly missed books and playmates. I had to make do with the house cats and the shepherd dog as companions, and they complied happily most of the time.

When I reached my fourteenth year, I decided that whatever else I did, I would leave home and explore the world. In due course, I moved to Paris which I found disappointing despite its physical beauty. Later still, I ventured into England and worked hard to learn the language. As a foreigner in London, I enjoyed a social freedom that France never afforded me. Finally, I landed in Canada and made my permanent home in Montreal. I found the city both village-like in its different neighbourhoods, and stimulating in its dual culture and language. I don’t have to drink lousy wine anymore. Except that to this day, I have retained a persistent aversion to red wine, no matter how prestigious its vintage.

Clearly, there must be some affinity for wine in my genes, although it may have skipped a generation. How else can I explain my daughter Laura’s passion for the brew of the gods?” 

Many thanks for this contribution by Colette Vidal, my genitor.


if you dare